The Rolex Submariner 1680. A name that conjures images of rugged adventure, deep-sea exploration, and timeless elegance. But beyond the iconic case shape and the instantly recognizable crown, lies a detail often overlooked, yet crucial to both the watch's functionality and its value: the bezel. This article will delve into the intricacies of the Rolex 1680 bezel, exploring its design, variations, condition, and ultimately, its significant impact on the overall value of this highly sought-after vintage timepiece.
Okay, here’s where things get a little more involved. As you will probably know, the vast majority of a vintage watch’s value is dependent on its *condition*. This is especially true for a watch as desirable and collectible as the Rolex 1680. While the movement, case, and bracelet all contribute to the overall assessment, the bezel often acts as a significant indicator of a watch's history and its level of preservation. Scratches, fading, and imperfections on the bezel can dramatically affect the price a collector is willing to pay. Understanding the nuances of the 1680 bezel is therefore crucial for both buyers and sellers navigating this complex market.
Rolex 1680: A Brief Overview
Before we dive into the specifics of the bezel, let's briefly revisit the Rolex Submariner 1680 itself. Produced from 1966 to 1979, the 1680 represents a significant chapter in the Submariner's history. It marked a transition period, incorporating features that would define subsequent models while retaining certain elements of its predecessors. Key features include its larger case size compared to earlier Submariners, the introduction of the date function (hence the "Date" in the reference number), and the iconic, and often debated, acrylic crystal.
The 1680 is known for its variations, offering collectors a wide range of choices. This includes different dial variations – the highly coveted red "Submariner" and "GMT-Master" dials being prime examples – and bezel variations, which will be the primary focus of this article. The variations in dial and bezel combinations contribute significantly to the individuality and collectability of each specific example.
Rolex 1680 Bezel Review: Material and Construction
The Rolex 1680 bezel is typically made of aluminum. Unlike later ceramic bezels, the aluminum bezels of the 1680 are susceptible to wear and tear, scratches, and fading. This susceptibility is a double-edged sword. While it contributes to the patina and character of a well-worn example, it also means that the condition of the bezel is a primary determinant of the watch's value. A pristine, unfaded bezel on a 1680 commands a premium price, while a heavily scratched or faded one can significantly lower its value.
The construction of the bezel itself is robust, designed to withstand the rigors of diving. It's a unidirectional rotating bezel, meaning it can only be turned counter-clockwise. This crucial design feature prevents accidental alteration of the dive time, a vital safety aspect for divers. The bezel clicks with distinct increments, usually 1 minute per click, allowing for precise timing of dives. The feel of the bezel's rotation – its smoothness, the distinct clicks, and the lack of play – is another aspect that collectors carefully examine.
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